returning to unfinished business

In this week's vlog, we are going back to the TBA to return to boulders that I couldn't finish last session.

I talk warm-up intentions, projecting boulders, and breaking down moves. Watch it below!

Here are the cliff notes from the video:

Warm-up intention

I like to chose an intention when I warm up to get mentally prepared for my session. The intention may or may not be specific to what I'm doing during the session, but it's an important step for getting focused.

For this session, my warm up was specific - I focused on flowing movement so to prepare for being dynamic and powerful in the TBA room.

Rest times for projecting

The goal of boulder projecting is to work on strength and power. This means the intensity of efforts needs to be high.

Taking long rest times between attempts is important. Not resting long enough makes it harder to keep the intensity high enough and changes the energy system you are working.

I recommend resting for 3-5 minutes between shorter attempts (trying a hard move a couple of times, or doing a few moves in a row, etc.) and 7-15 minutes between longer attempts (almost sending a boulder, doing a big link, etc.).

Breaking down hard moves

There are two questions I like to ask when figuring out a hard move:

1. What is physically happening?  - Observe what's happening with your body in the moment that you're falling.

2. What's the movement crux (what's the underlying issue)? -  Identify the cause of what's physically happening

I hope you enjoy the vlog!