my favorite “dumpy” boulders
A few weeks ago, I asked you all for suggestions for some climbing list recommendations you'd like to see - the more unusual, the better. So we are starting off this series with a good one.
One of the reasons I'm excited about creating this list is that there is a special place in my heart for dumpy climbs, aka "turds".
I would classify a turd as a small, low to the ground boulder that makes you feel just a little bit silly for how hard you try to summit something you can easily step up the back of.
But isn't that the beauty of our sport? Having fun being bit silly?
I enjoy climbing dumpy boulders in part because I enjoy climbing by myself. I like going climb that I can easily protect with just a couple of pads and work through the moves without the fear of getting hurt or the need for spotters.
So here are my Top 5 Turd Boulders (videos linked for those I have footage for):
1. Gasoline Sunrise V8
Location: Little Rock City, TN
While the height of this boulder may clock in at your waist, a blank mantle proves to be a surprising challenge.
Video
3. Testify V11
Location: Lilly Boulders, TN
Certainly the hardest moves I've done 6 inches off the ground. The pride of doing this boulder is punctuated by its drop off finish.
Video
2. Captain Hook V9
Location: Flatirons, CO
Double toe hooks lead the way out from a smol but steep cave. I also liked that the shorty sequence for this one, though much harder than the standard beta, created some fun movement.
Video
4. Fat Lip V7
Location: Chattanooga, TN
A butt-dragging traverse in its own right, this boulder has the coolest pinch hold you get to grab and mantle off of.
5. The Womb V10
(pictured)
Location: Rocktown, GA
Powerful moves lead to a difficult angle change as you scramble out of a dark corridor to see the light of day. Can confirm it feels like being born.
Video
As I made this list, I realize that the dumpy boulders I've climbed on are all harder grades. I may be missing out on some easier turd gems - I might have to seek some of those out in the future.