climbing circuits

I got a fun request for this week's newsletter that I'm excited to write about! Here's what the request said:

"If you have time, could you do a newsletter on Triple Crown tactics? I usually go to Hound Ears every year and do a roast or star chaser but am interested in maybe competing this year. As a TC champ, could you offer some advice to us in the Southeast?"

What the Triple Crown outdoor competition really comes down to is: circuiting. So today I will break down just what circuits are and where they fit into training.

What

So, what is a circuit in the first place?

A circuit is a set of climbs that you have already sent that you repeat in a single session.

The number of climbs can be anywhere from 8-15, at a grade level of 2-6 grades below redpoint level.

The idea is that you should be able to repeat the climbs quickly (no more than 3 attempts).

Pictured: my circuit/scorecard from the Stone Fort TC

When/Why

The circuit is a high volume day and should be performed as its own session. There are a number of reasons to perform a circuit including:

• to focus on technique and repeat climbs in "good style"

• to elicit a power endurance/endurance adaptation

• to increase overall capacity

It's important to note that because circuiting is so high volume, it creates a lot of fatigue. Because of this, it shouldn't be performed too frequently.

If a higher frequency for power endurance adaptation is desired, this should be temporary. For example, performing circuits once per week for 4 weeks, then backing off.

In general, circuits can be performed more like once every 10 days-2 weeks.

Where

A circuit can be performed either indoors or outdoors.

Many gyms have "circuit style" grading, where a color tag represents a grade range. So you may do, for example, the "pink tag circuit".

How

1. Choose 7-15 climbs you have previously completed. If you are doing a harder circuit (ex: 2 grades below redpoint level), do fewer climbs. If you are doing an easier circuit (ex: 4-6 grades below redpoint), you can choose to do more climbs.

Pictured: practicing my circuit vs. competition day

2. Try your best to day flash each boulder by thinking back to when you sent it and any nuances you figured out with the beta.

3. It's ok if you fall, just keep it to 3 attempts or fewer on each climb.

4. Take note of how you do on the circuit, and try to improve on it the next time you perform it!