weight and climbing culture

CW: eating disorders

Last week, World Cup climber Alannah Yip created anInstagram poststating "Climbing has a cultural and systemic weight problem". 

She then continued in her caption to criticize the IFSC (the governing body for international climbing competitions) for dropping BMI testing for this year's competitions and stated that some athletes unhealthily drop weight for a competitive edge.

She proposed that all competing athletes be screened for RED-S (Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport), "a debilitating syndrome that can have far reaching effects including on bone health, immunity, cardiovascular health, metabolic rate, and menstrual function."

The IFSC responded in the comments a few days ago stating,

"Like you, we know the issue of RED-S is very important, not only on a sport level, but also on wider general health and well-being level, especially as our athletes grow in the public eye and become even bigger role models around the world...

...Our plan is to implement the correct rules and procedures to address this issue. We respect that the timeline may seem frustrating, but we want to be certain that what is put in place correctly and adequately addresses the concerns and issues.

Where we definitely agree with you: all athletes should go through a RED-S evaluation process. That is our goal, but again, it requires the correct procedures which are currently under definition in collaboration with the IOC..."

So... a political non-answer pointing the finger at bureaucratic red tape.

This conversation about weight and climbing culture is not new. It seems we get a viral post every six months without seeing any real change.

Yes it's great to have posts like this to raise awareness and spark conversation, but without actionable change these conversations get tired.

What do we actually need to change things not only at the competitive level but also at the cultural level? Here are my thoughts:

1. At the organizational level: a third party organization that understands the ins and outs of said bureaucratic red tape that can effectively advocate for athletes and potentially create written rule proposals.

2. At the competitive coaching level: as mentioned in a comment by @usefulcoach , more regular screenings and candid conversations throughout the team selection process, training and preparation for competitions, and at the competitions.

3. At the general cultural level: an acknowledgement that our culture is anti-fat and plus size climbers face an immense amount of discrimination. Across the board, plus size and straight size recreational climbers may experience body dysmorphia, disordered eating habits, and eating disorders.

Accepting, welcoming, and creating safe spaces for plus size climbers will liberate people of all body sizes. Start with those who face the most discrimination. This includes more representation of diverse bodies in the media.

I had some really excellent conversations with you all on Instagram on this topic. Feel free to reply to this email with your thoughts!