specific skills

The Pillars of Climbing

Today we are talking about specific skills that support the technique pillar of climbing.

Last week we used an analogy of slicing an apple to demonstrate the concept of technical efficiency. The last technique included using a "tool" of an apple slicer.

The apple slicer is the equivalent of using a specific skill in climbing.

A specific skill is a tool that helps us to employ good technique.

We don't use every single skill on every single climb just as you don't use every single tool on your toolbelt every time you go to work on something. But each skill is available if and when we need them.

Some skills are more common while others are more specialized. The more tools we have in our toolbelt, the more confidence we can bring with us to a new climb.

In the below example, my task is to get around the right arete on this climb.

Just like with slicing the apple there are multiple ways to execute this task, some methods better than others. Let's take a look at a few methods:

Method 1

In this first method, I place my right toe on the foothold and lunge to the right. The move is a bit violent because my hips are pretty far from the wall throughout the move.

I have to pull hard with my upper body and work hard to catch the arete because I'm moving fast. I'm also landing pretty low on the arete.

Method 2

In this next method, I reposition my hips so that they are higher. I focus on pulling my hips in with my right toe and keep my hips close to the wall throughout the move.

This method allows me to stay more in control and use less energy from my upper body during the movement. I'm moving slower as I catch the arete and I end up much higher up on the arete.

Because this method is easier and more efficient, I'm using better technique here. Keeping my hips in close to the wall can be considered a skill, and it is a common skill that is employed often. 

Method 3

In this final method, I place a right heel on the foothold instead of a toe and use a heel hook to perform the move.

By pulling with my heel, I can keep my hips extremely close to the wall during the movement. I am in complete control and am able to choose exactly where I want to grab the arete.

For me, this is the best technique because the heel hook is a specialized skill that I am very familiar and comfortable with.

However it's worth saying, not everyone loves to use heel hooks based on different body morphologies and familiarity with the skill. So this may not be the best skill to employ for everyone.

This is why we will be talking about physical constraints next week: why the way you choose to do a climb is unique to you and your body.