motivation

Motivation can be a tricky thing in climbing because it ebbs and flows.

Sometimes we are super psyched to train and get on our project, and other times it feels like pulling teeth to go to the gym.

How do we deal with these ebbs and flows? Should we respect our motivation based on where it's currently at or should we stay consistent and be ok with grinding from time to time? 

Motivation by definition is "the intensity and direction of effort".

There are two types of motivation you may have heard of: intrinsic and extrinsic.

Intrinsic motivation comes from sources within the athlete. For example in climbing this may be a desire to feel like you're moving well on the wall or feeling enjoyment from getting out climbing in general.

Climbers who are intrinsically motivated have a drive to learn and improve for the sake of learning and improvement.

Extrinsic motivation comes from sources outside of the athlete. For example, competition awards, praise from coaches or peers, feeling socially accepted, and fear of punishment.

Almost all athletes have a mix of both types of motivation and the degree to which someone leans intrinsically or extrinsically varies.

So the answer to the above question, "how do we deal with the ebbs and flows of motivation?" lies in the balance between these two types of motivation.

Extrinsic motivation can be helpful when the intrinsic pool is running dry. Working with a coach for accountability, participating in a league at the gym, or committing to a training plan with a friend are all great ways to jumpstart the psyche.

However solely relying on external sources is not sustainable in the long run. Maintaining intrinsic motivation is important for all athletes and according to Deci's Self-Determination theory, perceived competence and autonomy are at the heart of it.

Strategies to encourage competence and autonomy include setting and achieving appropriate (especially process-based) goals and making at least some of your own decisions when it comes to your sessions.

How do you maintain internal sources of motivation?