managing trip expectations (part 2)

Last week we started the discussion about setting realistic expectations for climbing trips. Today we are talking through the considerations for setting your expectations (please note these are only considerations, trips are very personal!):

1. Have you been to this area before?

If it's your first time to a crag your expectations should be different than if you're returning. It may take some time to adjust to the style of climbing and you may want to focus on a bit more mileage/project shopping. It may be unrealistic to expect to send something at your true limit immediately. 

If you've been to an area before, you likely have some idea of the climbs you want to focus on. You may have project shopped previously and have a couple of climbs you want to put effort into. 

2. How long is your trip?

There's a big difference between a long weekend and a 2 week venture. How many climbing days will you have? How many rest days can you afford?

If it's a short trip to a new area, I typically recommend taking a more exploratory approach and setting goals of sending a handful of climbs ~2-4 grades below your limit.

If it's a short trip to a familiar area, being very focused on a singular objective can pay off. If you have a project you've put work into previously, you can continue working on it to tee it up for another trip, or try to send.

If you have a long trip planned to a new area, you can have a combination of volume and projecting goals. The beginning of the trip can be dedicated to exploring, mileage, and picking a project while the latter part of the trip can be focused on your project.

If you have a long trip planned to a familiar area, you can either pick one thing at your true limit that you'll try to take down or you can pick 2-3 harder climbs to try.

3. How much did you prepare?

Was this a trip you had on your calendar for months? Or did you have a short notice opportunity to travel?

Were you able to consistently train leading up to the trip, or did life get a little crazy? Being honest with yourself about your preparation can help set realistic expectations for the trip.

If you haven't been able to "ideally" prepare, be kind to yourself. Try to have fun and have some secondary objectives if you'd like. Consider it a climbing vacation and don't put too much pressure on the outcome.

If you are happy with your preparation, employ the same projecting tactics that you would at home. Perhaps leading up to the trip, come up with some stress management strategies (listening to music, taking a walk, etc.). Being on a trip can certainly add pressure so having these strategies beforehand can be really helpful.

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Are these things you've considered on past trips? If not, how will you adjust your expectations for your next trip?